Set the Plays ("Play Count" before iTunes v9.2) of the selected tracks to a user-entered number (they will all be set to the same number). If this number is 0 then the Last Played date of each track will be erased. (iTunes has the ability to "Reset Plays" to 0 from a track's contextual menu.)
Also see Add or Subtract Play Count.
Apple Music users should beware of a potential bug.
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